SubscribeLog in
Connect with us

China Fashion & Beauty

“Made in China” Fashion – Forever Doomed?

‘Chinese fashion’ is a hot topic on China’s social media platforms this week. China fashion expert Elsbeth van Paridon hopefully wishes the MET gala throws another Chinoiserie ball in a decade or so. Is “Made in China” Fashion doomed?

Published

on

READING TIME: 3 MINUTES, 55 SECONDS

‘Chinese fashion’ is a hot topic on China’s social media platforms this week. China fashion writer Elsbeth van Paridon hopefully wishes the MET gala throws another Chinoiserie ball in a decade or so.

It was a wild week in the world of China fashion news. First, popstar Katy Perry draped herself in a   Taiwanese flag at a Taipei concert. Then Su Mang, one of China’s most influential fashion figures, spoke at the 2015 Harvard China Forum about the future of Chinese fashion. Most controversially, the famous A-list ball at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York called on celebrities to dress for the theme of Chinese influences on western fashion at the beginning of May. The ball became trending on Sina Weibo and dominated Weixin discussions. Many Chinese netizens ridiculed the outfits of America’s celebrities, like Sarah Jessica Parker, who ‘looked like a Beijing Olympics mascotte’, or Rihanna, whose dress resembled ‘a Chinese omelette’ according to Weibo’s netizens.

Elsbeth van Paridon is a sinologist and China fashion writer. She is based in Beijing since 2010, and works in the fashion industry. She gives her view on this week’s happenings for What’s on Weibo:

 

Chinoiserie: Friend or Foe?

 

b8ac6f27b00016b3a4b801Rihanna’s dress, mocked by Chinese netizens for ‘resembling a Chinese omelette’.

Monday May 4 stood out in many a fashion-aficionado/a’s calendar as the annual outlandish couture fest (or frenzy, perhaps) that is the Met Gala rolled out the red carpet once again, sporting the theme “Chinoiserie” (one that many avant-gardists related to China fashion had awaited with baited breath — not this one though, I’m slightly skeptical when it comes to Queen Bey and the likes showing us their take on the wardrobe pick-of-the-season, no offense Your Madgesty).

Now, in hindsight, let me make an attempt to be politically correct in summarizing the A-list peacock feathers du jour: opinions were definitely divided. I’m the first one to agree that Fashion is the Land of Freedom and any take on a specific theme should be completely and utterly personal; but as I stood peering through the looking glass, I had a hard time spotting the ‘Chinois’ in the whole thing. And when the China flash did appear, it gave off somewhat of the “very average design school graduation project idea”, as Beijing designer Iris Wang put it: more tragic than transcendent.

 

Will the label “Made in China” forever be doomed?

 

Then, lo and behold, what are the chances…Coincidence or not (probably the latter, I do get that), a few days prior to the photo-opp of the year, on May 1, the Harvard China Forum hosted a talk on China fashion, and more specifically asked itself: Is China still able to fulfill and live its dream of becoming the reigning Queen Bee of the International Fashion Hive? Or will the label “Made in China” forever be doomed to burn in Vogue purgatory? E-commerce in China, i.e. purchasing your Monday outfit on ultra-popular sites such as Taobao and Alibaba, is thriving; yet that ain’t got that real Alexander McQueen feel to it, now does it?

 

160045_1306606.jpg.800x533_q95_crop-smart_upscaleSu Mang speaking at the Harvard Forum.

Both entrepreneurship and fashion remain relatively new concepts in China anno 2015. One-woman-powerhouse Su Mang, President and CEO of Trends Media Group, has been working in the industry for almost two decades now, and impeccably dressed, she had her say at the forum. In the early 2000s, with China fashion in its newborn stages one might say, Su took on her first job as editor-in-chief and founded “Bazaar in China, and embarked upon a period to which she refers as being one of “trial and error”. Heading a crew of no more than 30 at the publication, she started weaving the little silk she had been given and over the next decade “saw China fashion growing into an increasingly powerful tool able to influence artists, musicians, dresses to the stars and thus the clothing trends of hundreds of thousands across the nation”. Again, that all happened within the span of merely ten years. Not too shabby.

 

“China will grow into its own style.”

 

Putting the final hemlines on her discourse, Su pointed out how her fiercely fiery dreams regarding China’s fashionable development are by no means slowing down, let alone been diminished to cinders, on the contrary: the Fashion Dragon roars (I’m slightly paraphrasing here; thought it sounded more passionate, anyhoo). “After all, who is to say what fashion really is? Is it merely couture; or does it cover a wider range of clothing[racks]? China will grow into its own style mode; let’s just see what that will be. But in no way does it end here.” Amen to that, Su.

Maybe the MET should have another “China-do” in another decade then. Let’s wait and see.”

_82774782_82767298British model Cara Delevingne was covered in fake floral tattoos as she arrived for the gala. As reported by BBC’s Saira Asher and Heather Chen, the Weibo verdict: “Those fake flower tattoos – Frightening!“, and: “Aren’t cherry blossoms Japanese?

 

By Elsbeth van Paridon
Follow What’s on Weibo on Twitter

 

Images:

http://www.thecrimson.com/image/2015/4/27/sumangchinaforum/
http://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-china-32586993

Elsbeth van Paridon is a sinologist and fashion writer. Since 2010, she has been living in Beijing, where she has become an expert on all the ins and outs of the world of China fashion. She has her own blog on China fashion: Chasing the Fashion Dragon.

Continue Reading
1 Comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

China Fashion & Beauty

“No Kimonos Allowed” – Ongoing Debate on Japanese Attire in China

A Chinese girl who was refused entry to a local comic convention for wearing a ‘kimono’ raised questions about whether restrictions on Japanese attire were motivated by historical sensitivities or gender bias.

Manya Koetse

Published

on

An incident from earlier in July continues to spark discussions on Chinese social media about wearing Japanese-style clothing and where to draw the line between freedom of dress and banning attire deemed too sensitive.

The incident occurred in Jinan on July 20, when a girl wearing a Japanese yukata was refused entry to a local comic convention due to her attire. A yukata is similar to a kimono but more casual and lightweight, usually worn during the summer.

A video of the incident went viral, showing the girl dressed as Nezuko Kamado, a main character in the manga series Demon Slayer. The person filming, presumably the security guard at the venue, tells the girl she cannot enter dressed in a kimono and sends her away. “We don’t allow kimonos,” he says. “This is China.”

Screenshots of the video by RFA.

Although many applaud the decision to refuse Japanese traditional clothing at the convention, some commenters express frustration over such regulations at an anime convention, given that much of anime culture originates from Japan.

“With such a rule, why even bother holding an anime convention at all? Everything comes from Japan,” one top comment said.

“This is not even normal Japanese traditional clothing; it’s cosplay,” another person wrote.

Some people, however, point out that there are more cosplay events in China where dressing in Japanese-style attire goes against the rules, and suggest that this girl should have known better.

 
Sensitive Fashion
 

This is not the first time discussions over kimono-wearing women have flared up in China. One notable incident happened in the summer of 2022, when a Chinese female cosplayer dressed in a Japanese summer kimono while taking pictures in Suzhou’s ‘Little Tokyo’ area was taken away by local police for ‘provoking trouble’ (read more).

Later, in September 2023, a draft amendment to China’s Public Security Administration Punishments Law (治安管理处罚法) to ban clothing that “hurts national feelings” also triggered social media debates about freedom of dress and cultural sensitivities.

The issue that concerned people the most was the vague definition included in the amendment, namely, “harming or hurting the spirit and feelings of the Chinese nation” (“伤害中华民族精神、感情”). Although Chinese state media indicated that the clause targets provocative actions to attract public attention, such as wearing Japanese military uniforms at sensitive sites, legal experts and social media users expressed apprehensions regarding its ambiguity, wondering who determines what qualifies as “harmful” in the end.

Among Chinese young people, cosplay (‘costume play’) has become increasingly popular in recent years. Cosplay allows people to be something they are not—a superhero, a villain, a sex bomb—sometimes Chinese, American, or Japanese. Would a change to the law prevent them from role-playing?

 
A Gender Issue
 

Some people suggest that this is not only about wearing Japanese-style clothing but also about sexist ideas in China regarding what Chinese women can or cannot wear.

One Weibo user (@我见青山多可笑) thought it was especially unfair for the girl in Jinan to be denied entry in light of another recent incident where a man wearing a t-shirt with a Rising Sun flag design visited the Unit 731 Exhibition Hall, a museum about the biological and chemical warfare atrocities committed by the Japanese in Harbin during the Second Sino-Japanese War.

That incident happened on July 14. Although other visitors at the museum took offense and photographed the man wearing the t-shirt, nobody intervened. On Weibo, wearing such a t-shirt to the war museum was seen as an act of provocation (#男子在731部队罪证陈列馆穿太阳旗图案T恤#).

A man wearing a Japanese rising sun design while visiting a museum about war atrocities committed by Japanese in Harbin.

The Weibo user wrote: “This just shows that people’s sensitivity to Japanese clothing/Japanese culture is entirely divided by gender. If it’s a woman, it’s not allowed. If it’s a guy? Absolutely fine!”

Other commenters (@超级大酵母母母) agreed, saying: “The girl wasn’t wearing a traditional kimono; it was a cosplay outfit of a character. There were many male characters in Japanese-style clothing at the convention, but security did not stop them and only stopped the girl.”

In the end, regardless of political and gender implications, Chinese cosplay fans are just worried about the future of their beloved hobby: “If kimonos are not allowed at anime conventions, then there are so many characters that can’t be cosplayed. It’s just ridiculous!”

By Manya Koetse

Spotted a mistake or want to add something? Please let us know in comments below or email us. First-time commenters, please be patient – we will have to manually approve your comment before it appears.

©2024 Whatsonweibo. All rights reserved. Do not reproduce our content without permission – you can contact us at info@whatsonweibo.com.

Continue Reading

China Brands, Marketing & Consumers

Chinese Sun Protection Fashion: Move over Facekini, Here’s the Peek-a-Boo Polo

From facekini to no-face hoodie: China’s anti-tan fashion continues to evolve.

Manya Koetse

Published

on

It has been ten years since the Chinese “facekini”—a head garment worn by Chinese ‘aunties’ at the beach or swimming pool to prevent sunburn—went international.

Although the facekini’s debut in French fashion magazines did not lead to an international craze, it did turn the term “facekini” (脸基尼), coined in 2012, into an internationally recognized word.

The facekini went viral in 2014.

In recent years, China has seen a rise in anti-tan, sun-protection garments. More than just preventing sunburn, these garments aim to prevent any tanning at all, helping Chinese women—and some men—maintain as pale a complexion as possible, as fair skin is deemed aesthetically ideal.

As temperatures are soaring across China, online fashion stores on Taobao and other platforms are offering all kinds of fashion solutions to prevent the skin, mainly the face, from being exposed to the sun.

One of these solutions is the reversed no-face sun protection hoodie, or the ‘peek-a-boo polo,’ a dress shirt with a reverse hoodie featuring eye holes and a zipper for the mouth area.

This sun-protective garment is available in various sizes and models, with some inspired by or made by the Japanese NOTHOMME brand. These garments can be worn in two ways—hoodie front or hoodie back. Prices range from 100 to 280 yuan ($13-$38) per shirt/jacket.

The no-face hoodie sun protection shirt is sold in various colors and variations on Chinese e-commerce sites.

Some shops on Taobao joke about the extreme sun-protective fashion, writing: “During the day, you don’t know which one is your wife. At night they’ll return to normal and you’ll see it’s your wife.”

On Xiaohongshu, fashion commenters note how Chinese sun protective clothing has become more extreme over the past few years, with “sunburn protection warriors” (防晒战士) thinking of all kinds of solutions to avoid a tan.

Although there are many jokes surrounding China’s “sun protection warriors,” some people believe they are taking it too far, even comparing them to Muslim women dressed in burqas.

Image shared on Weibo by @TA们叫我董小姐, comparing pretty girls before (left) and nowadays (right), also labeled “sunscreen terrorists.”

Some Xiaohongshu influencers argue that instead of wrapping themselves up like mummies, people should pay more attention to the UV index, suggesting that applying sunscreen and using a parasol or hat usually offers enough protection.

By Manya Koetse, with contributions by Miranda Barnes

Spotted a mistake or want to add something? Please let us know in comments below or email us. First-time commenters, please be patient – we will have to manually approve your comment before it appears.

©2024 Whatsonweibo. All rights reserved. Do not reproduce our content without permission – you can contact us at info@whatsonweibo.com.

Continue Reading

Subscribe

What’s on Weibo is run by Manya Koetse (@manyapan), offering independent analysis of social trends in China for over a decade. Subscribe to show your support and gain access to all content, including the Weibo Watch newsletter, providing deeper insights into the China trends that matter.

Manya Koetse's Profile Picture

Get in touch

Would you like to become a contributor, or do you have any tips or suggestions? Get in touch here!

Popular Reads